My preferred machine for dark lips is the Flux Mini with a 2.5mm stroke length. This machine is gentle on the lips, which is crucial for dark pigmentation as traumatized lips can appear even darker for a few months post-treatment. To avoid this, I recommend using machines with short stroke lengths. I perform almost all my lip blushings with either the Flux Mini or the Flux S Max Rouge, both of which have the same stroke length.
For powder brows, I use the Bellar Air machine with a 3.0mm stroke length, and for Nano hairstrokes, I use the Bellar with a 2.7mm stroke length. The Bellar Air machine's E-Give function is particularly useful as it allows for a harder beat when needed and a softer touch for thinner skin.
Choosing the right machine is a personal decision. What works perfectly for me may not suit someone else's needs. However, I do have some general recommendations. For lips, I always suggest a machine with a shorter stroke length for a more natural look. I believe that less is more, and the goal is for healed lips to appear natural. For powder brows and lash enhancement, machines with medium stroke lengths and an E-Give function are ideal.
What or who inspired you to specialize in dark lip neutralization?
My inspiration to specialize in dark lip neutralization stemmed from a mistake I made early in my career in the USA, which I took as a pivotal point for growth. Coming from Ukraine, where clients with hyperpigmented lips were rare, moving to the United States exposed me to a diverse clientele with such issues. It was while working on one of these clients that I made a mistake in pigment selection, resulting in lips that healed with a purplish undertone. Determined to correct this, I embarked on a journey of learning, taking numerous courses and gaining extensive experience with hyperpigmented lips. What started as an effort to fix a mistake soon turned into a passion. I discovered that working on hyperpigmented lips not only enhances their appearance but also restores confidence in clients, which I find incredibly rewarding.
Can you explain the process of dark lip neutralization and how it differs from traditional lip tattooing?
Dark lip neutralization is a meticulous process that differs significantly from traditional lip blushing. I always ensure my clients understand that neutralization may require multiple sessions and patience. Unlike traditional lip blushing, where results are more immediate, neutralization is a gradual process we undertake together seriously. This is because it is easier to cover a transparent lighter color with a transparent darker color than the reverse.
The initial session serves as a trial stage to assess how the color heals, allowing for adjustments during subsequent touch-up sessions. One key difference is in pigment selection. For dark lip neutralization, I use a lighter pigments compared to traditional lip blushing. I appreciate the availability of pigment lines tailored for dark lips, such as the Lip System set from Evenflo. These specialized pigments minimize the risk of errors, ensuring a more predictable and successful outcome.
What factors do you consider when determining the appropriate color and technique for dark lip neutralization?
When determining the appropriate color and technique for dark lip neutralization, I consider two main factors: the level of pigmentation and the color of the pigmentation. I've developed a system where I divide dark lips into four levels of pigmentation, which forms the basis of my online Dark Lips Training. For darker lips with more brownish pigmentation, I prefer using pigments with a pink base, such as Lulu’s Rose or Romance from Evenflo. These pigments work effectively to neutralize the brown tones. On the other hand, for lips with more purplish pigmentation, I find that pigments with a warm coral base, like Yellow Clay from Evenflo, are a better choice. By carefully considering these factors, I can choose the most appropriate pigment and technique to achieve optimal results in dark lip neutralization.
How do you ensure that the results of dark lip neutralization are natural-looking and flattering for each client?
Ensuring that the results of dark lip neutralization appear natural and flattering for each client begins with the careful selection of the right pigment. When the correct pigment is chosen, achieving natural-looking results becomes much easier. However, it's important to note that achieving the desired outcome may require multiple sessions, which is a normal part of the treatment process. For clients concerned about overly heavy or unnatural-looking results, I recommend using a machine with a shorter stroke length, typically between 2.0-2.5 mm. Personally, I utilize the Flux Mini machine from Microbeau for all my dark lip neutralization treatments, as it allows for precise control and optimal results. Conversely, if a client experiences minimal or almost invisible results even after several sessions, the issue may lie in the technique used during the treatment. During dark lip neutralization, it's crucial to implant the pigment densely to ensure adequate coverage and color saturation.
What are some common misconceptions about dark lip neutralization that you encounter, and how do you address them?
One common misconception about dark lip neutralization is the belief that only orange-yellow pigments should be used, as they are considered complimentary colors to purple and blue. Some artists have questioned my use of light pink pigments for neutralization, but it's important to understand color theory in more depth. While orangy-yellow pigments can neutralize purplish tones, the result of combining complimentary colors is a neutral brown color. I aim for my clients to heal with beautiful, natural-looking pinkish lips rather than neutral brown ones.
To achieve this, I emphasize the importance of considering the value of the pigment, not just the hue. By selecting a pigment with the right value, I can achieve the desired baby pink lip color. It's crucial to understand that color correction is a nuanced process that goes beyond simple color theory, and I strive to educate both clients and fellow artists on these principles to dispel misconceptions about dark lip neutralization.
What aftercare advice do you provide to clients following a dark lip neutralization procedure?
After a dark lip neutralization procedure, I provide clients with comprehensive aftercare advice to ensure optimal healing. I advise them to expect light peeling and emphasize the importance of moisturizing their lips thoroughly. Moisturizing is a key component of the aftercare routine, and I include an ointment balm, such as Vaseline or Aquaphor, in their aftercare bag to help keep their lips hydrated. Additionally, I recommend that clients avoid exposing their lips to direct sunlight and refrain from picking or scratching at the treated area. It's important to follow these aftercare instructions diligently to ensure the best possible outcome.
How do you stay updated on the latest trends and techniques in the field of permanent makeup, particularly dark lip neutralization?
My main source of inspiration is Instagram, where I keep up with the latest trends and techniques in permanent makeup, especially in dark lip neutralization. I find it amazing that every artist now has their own 'business card' in the form of an Instagram account, showcasing their style and expertise. It's a great platform to discover new artists and decide whose techniques I want to learn more about. However, my knowledge comes from attending conferences and training sessions. These events are invaluable for staying up-to-date with the latest information and techniques in the field. I'm thrilled to be a speaker at an upcoming conference in Vegas, where I'll be presenting my dark lips neutralization technique. It's a fantastic opportunity to share my knowledge and learn from other experts in the industry.
What advice would you give to someone considering dark lip neutralization for the first time?
My primary advice for anyone considering dark lip neutralization for the first time is to schedule an in-person consultation. I view the process of dark lip neutralization as a meticulous project that requires a serious commitment from the client. During the consultation, I aim to manage expectations by providing a realistic prognosis of the lip transformation. I always emphasize to clients that if they are not prepared to return for a touch-up session, it may be better to forgo the initial treatment altogether. I take the time to explain the treatment process, including the pigments I will use, and the role of Titanium Dioxide, allowing clients to make an informed decision. Ultimately, I want my clients to feel confident and well-informed about their decision to undergo dark lip neutralization, and the consultation is an essential step in ensuring a successful outcome."
Can you share a success story or memorable experience you've had while performing dark lip neutralization for a client?
I had a memorable experience early in my journey with dark lip neutralization. A client came to me with lips which I classified as the fourth level of pigmentation, which was quite intense. What made this case challenging was that the pigmentation was unevenly distributed, with defined lines separating areas of intense pigmentation from those with none. I conducted one session and three touch-ups for her, and throughout the process, she displayed remarkable patience and determination to achieve lighter lips. During her third touch-up, which required minimal work to assess healing and potential further treatment, she surprised me with a bouquet of flowers. She expressed that I had changed her life. This experience was incredibly rewarding, and it didn't end there. She referred both her sister and mother to me for dark lip neutralization, and I had the privilege of helping them as well. It's moments like these that remind me of the transformative power of my work and the impact it can have on people's lives.
