Pigments for Melanin-Rich Skin: An Expert's Perspective
Achieving the perfect powder brows on melanin-rich skin requires a nuanced understanding of pigment selection and application techniques. Permanent makeup (PMU) artists working with diverse skin tones often face unique challenges, from pigment retention to color accuracy.
To shed light on this topic, we spoke with Elvire Musasa, a distinguished artist from Black Velvet Academy. She shares her expertise in selecting the right pigments, best practices for application, and aftercare recommendations to achieve the most flattering and long-lasting results.
Understanding Pigment Selection for Melanin-Rich Skin
What makes the Blonde 2 Brunette Set stand out?
One of the biggest challenges in PMU for darker skin tones is ensuring longevity and proper color retention. According to Musasa, the Blonde 2 Brunette SetOpens a new window offers a unique balance between organic and inorganic pigments, allowing for natural-looking results that last.
Elvire Musasa: "I think B2B is truly an answer to permanent makeup longevity. I'm able to provide these pigments to students who might have some ambiguities at the start of their careers. These pigments don't last as long as pure organic pigments, but they also have better retention than pure inorganic pigments, so it's really the best of both worlds."
Advantages of the B2B Set Over Traditional Pigments
Musasa highlights that using the right pigment can make all the difference in achieving a semi-permanent, natural look.
Elvire Musasa: "The biggest advantage is that it really adds the 'semi-permanency' to permanent makeup. I love the fact that it feeds more; I love the consistency in the colors, the warmth in the colors. I can mix all of these colors up. I never get greyish tones because it's just so well balanced, and there's not a lot of carbon black or titanium."
Matching Pigments to Skin Tones and Undertones
How to Choose the Right Pigment for Each Client
A key factor in PMU success is selecting the correct pigment for the client’s skin type and undertones. Musasa recommends swatching pigments to get an accurate read on how they will heal.
Elvire Musasa: "The best tip that I can give is to swatch these pigments. Once you swatch all four pigments, you'll notice some hues from the color wheel! For example, Gold BlondeOpens a new window is a beautiful pigment that I use on my Fitzpatrick 1 redheads, as the undertone is a muted yet fiery orange-brown. If I add Dark Blonde to the mix, then I basically neutralize the pigment into a soft blonde-brown, which I can then use on a Fitzpatrick type 2 client. The sub-category of browns that can be created to fit every single client is what makes this set so incredible."
To learn more about picking the right pigment for melanin-rich skin types, check out the All Things Melanin blog from Perma BlendOpens a new window, a global leader in PMU for all skin tones.
Application Techniques for Better Retention
Why Consistency Matters in Pigment Formulation
Each pigment formulation behaves differently upon application. Some require dilution for better penetration, while others work well straight from the bottle. Musasa shares her experience with B2B pigments:
Elvire Musasa: "I believe when it comes to application and pigment formulas, artists need to be mindful of the consistency of the pigment—whether the pigment easily penetrates the skin or not. Some pigments I find that I need a dilution solution to be able to effectively penetrate my client's skin, and therefore have better retention or also where the brows don't heal blocky. With B2B pigments, I find that I do not. The consistency is there, and the formulation is there, as I also don't have to add any modifiers to the pigments for the healed results to remain a stable brown."
Aftercare for Long-Lasting Results
The Importance of Dry Healing
Proper aftercare is essential for pigment retention and healing. Musasa swears by the dry healing method:
Elvire Musasa: "My perfect aftercare consists of dry healing. I tell all my clients, whether they have dry skin, normal skin, or oily skin, to just not touch their eyebrows for the next two weeks—no water, no soap on them; let them be. And I always get the best retention that way. Sometimes the simple things do the trick, and we don't have to complicate it."
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The Challenge of Brow Mapping
One of the most common struggles PMU artists face is achieving proper brow symmetry. Musasa emphasizes the importance of mapping brows in a way that enhances the client’s natural features:
Elvire Musasa: "The biggest challenge when you're performing an eyebrow procedure is always going to be brow mapping. One thing I noticed is when artists map completely away from the client's natural brow hair, although it may look beautiful, it might not be easy to maintain for the client. If the client is not able to upkeep that look, then it just ends up looking crazy, to say the least."
She encourages artists to develop a consistent mapping technique that they refine over time:
Elvire Musasa: "I found that over the years, when you develop a simple technique and apply yourself over and over and over, you eventually make fewer and fewer mistakes to a point where your mapping becomes near to perfect. Of course, brows could never be identical, but the idea is to give it the illusion of twins, haha."
Essential Tools for PMU Artists
Complementary Products for Best Results
Aside from selecting the right pigments, using high-quality tools is crucial for achieving precise and long-lasting results. Musasa shares her go-to brand for PMU cartridges:
Elvire Musasa: "I would say just having the right cartridges so everything just flows. I've been using FYT needles."
Continued Education and Industry Resources
Staying Updated in the Ever-Evolving PMU Industry
Education plays a huge role in any PMU artist’s career growth. Musasa encourages professionals to engage with the PMU community and follow reputable brands:
Elvire Musasa: "If you are not already, I would definitely highly recommend following the Evenflo IG, following Lulu's account obviously, and following Perma Blend Pigments' official website for any updates or latest developments in the PMU industry."
Conclusion
Elvire Musasa’s expertise highlights the importance of pigment selection, technique, and aftercare in achieving beautiful, long-lasting results for melanin-rich skin. By carefully selecting the right shades, perfecting application techniques, and following best practices for healing, PMU artists can elevate their craft and provide outstanding results for every client.
For appointments and classes, contact Elvire Musasa via her Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/blackvelvet.beautyOpens a new window
